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How to do the riveting on the bar

How to do the riveting on the bar

Rivets are everywhere. Airliners have rivets. The pockets of your Levis® have rivets. Frogs make the sound, "rrriiiiiivvvet." This is probably not what you need, doesn’t it? Not only are ubiquitous rivets, they are used to a sewing project. If you want to make a stitch with a sewing machine.

For rivets, you often see ribbons, pocket points or pouch. Rivets are the smooth, cool, tough guys of sewing. But they’re really secret to what’s right.

hole punch

Many riveting tutorials we reviewed left out this important tool. Or perhaps you’ve taken one of these wacky hole punches. We kind of doubt that. But, it is a tool to make it easy, especially with heavier fabrics, faux leathers and vinyls, and real leather. You can find punch tools online from Amazon as well as locally at traditional hardware stores; Habor Freight is one good option.

A hole punch is a plier-like tool with a rotating wheel of variously sized sharpened, hollow spikes. The spike strikes against the opposing anvil. The clean hole is cut. Awl or small, sharp scissors

It has been a great deal of effort to make it. However, if you don’t want a hole punch, you can make holes using a sewing awl  .

An awl is a good option when working with lighter-weight wovens. For these fabrics, you’ll get to know how to wear them. The cutout is bored. That said, if you still have a pattern, it’s not a problem. This is true when using either a hole punch or an awl.

"Always" and "Never" are hard to use when it comes to the creative processes. We always recommend that you make it to the final piece. Plastic or leather hammer

Get it out. It is ultimately the seal of the deal and the locking of the rivet post and cap. It would be a great stress. It can be used to prevent damage to your rivet. Look for a plastic mallet (shown above) or rawhide hammer . You can find it online (using our links) or in the woodworking department of your local hardware store. Setting post and anvil

If you’re looking for a finished rivet. You can usually take it a little bit more than a bit of pressure. You must be able to find out how to keep your eyes on it. strike your hammer. These tools are machined with one side concave (on the left above) and one side flat (on the right above). This is where your rivet pieces fit. Many rivet sets come with anvil tool. Dritz® tool

Dritz® makes an easy plastic setting tool that allows a cup on the back of a cup and a cup on the opposing cup. You can find a tool with rivets. The layers of the fabric go in between, then you gently hammer the cap to post. We show more detailed steps below.

The Dritz® Double Cap Rivets (described below and a Sew4 Home favorite)

It is considered home options. If you are looking for a combination of the leathers, it would be possible to find a leather working. EZ Rivet makes an affordable option.

There are MANY options for the rivets themselves. Most rivets are metal, and usually come in either gold (brass ) or silver (nickel ). The cap of the rivet sometimes offers a bit of decoration. You can find engraved decorative rivets, and there are even rivets with crystal or semi-precious stone caps  . Remember to make it a bit special.

Dritz® Double Cap It gives you a good deal of comfort.

The size of the head or the cap varies. It is important to see how you look at your project. For your application.

Even more important is the length of the post. It has long enough to penetrate through all the layers of fabric.

More than the Double Cap Rivets mentioned above, the back of rivets are usually flat and plain, revealing that hole that forms the post. Through the layers of your project. Hold up the fabric between the fingers. The post should just barely clear the fabric.

You want the smallest hole to go. If it won't slide in, that hole is too small. If it slides in and swims around, that hole to too big. Pick the hole that is just right.

Make centering marks on both the front and back of your fabric.

Align the hole punch over the centering points. Be careful to make sure the center of the spike is directly over your mark. Squeeze like heck! If you’re still a bit thick, you’ll be able to clean the punch through all the layers. Release the punch and carefully remove the fabric. If you’re not satisfied with the way through, you can flip it over. Or, as mentioned above, sharp scissors.

Place the anvil directly under the back of the rivet. The back of our rivet has been made up. Place the cap on the post.

Place the setting post carefully over the cap of the rivet. It was a peace of mind. Holding the setting post on the baseline. Slow down! If you are using a leather trimmed cap, you can use it. As always, you need your help.

Ta-da! Rivet front and back

As above, make sure your rivet is long enough to go through all the layers.
Mark the position for the rivet.
Use it for a hole the layers at your marked point.

NOTE: The Dritz® Rivet Tool Kit does not include a hole cutting tool. Remove one of the rubber trays and insert the cutting tool, which looks like a small post. Insert the tapered end. The point is the point where the point is taken. Strike with a hammer to pierce the fabric. There is a separate hole cutter.
of the Rivet Tool. This is done by inserting the post into it. There is a smooth tray for the rivet back.
rubber trays.
The stud (which is the cap / front of the snap ) is inserted first through the fabric.

Rotate the strap on your work surface The strap. Slide the black padded disk. This tool helps to protect your work surface.
Close the Rivet Tool rivet down into position over rivet cap stud. In the photo below, you can see the tool.
Strike it back against the stud. It doesn’t take even the blows to the rivet. Don't go too wild with your hammering; if you strike off center, it may not be secure correctly. Gently open from the back ...
... and from the front.

A final note: sewn project; they are designed to be permanent after all. Interfacing with the trim strip, trim it very carefully and thoroughly.

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